What I did today

It's starting to look like my new roommate/landlord, Brendan, has adopted me as a buddy. He seems smart, hard-working, and fun to be around so I can't complain. Today he took me surfing, which was my first time in warm water (no wet suit needed!). 

We went to Queens in Waikiki and he had a friend hook us up with a some 10' rental long-boards. We paddled out to the main lineup, which was about 90% first-time surfing tourists and 10% locals. The whole place was like a parking lot of surfboards... by far the most crowded spot I've ever surfed. So naturally, we went furthest out with all of the locals to try and catch the "outside" breaking waves before anybody else could. After getting a few questionable glances I became self-concise of my milky white complexion and how much of a fresh-off-the-plane haole I was. I need to get a tan.

We soon got tired of fighting that crowd, so we paddled to another peak that was breaking bigger and had less people. But even though there were less surfers, they were all locals so getting in the best position was hard. That's when Brendan spotted another peak that was uninhabited, so we raced out to it. This is when we started to have fun. We got to ride any wave wanted. We also got a chance to work on our hang-5 and headstands. We took advantage of that sweet spot for as long as we could stand to surf.

After paddling in we found out that most people don't surf that peak because the reef is relatively shallow, but we didn't have any problems at all. With the exception of a sunburn, surf wax in my chest hair, and sore nipples, I walked away totally unscathed.

For the rest of the day I rode my bike around town on errands. Came home exhausted, ate dinner, and caught an uninvited guest on my bed...